Using the back panel template, you can now easily cut the excess seam allowance by placing the template on top of your piece and cutting down the indicated line, revealing clean cut edges all round your piece. Line up the two burnished edges on your front and back panels and press them firmly for the glue to set. I like to trace a line 8mm from the edge (seam allowance plus stitch distance from the edge) that helps me visualize where my glue should go. Now you are ready to clue the front and back panel together. Trace your stitch line down that same side (I like 2,5 or 3mm from the edge) and stitch up. Place your front panel template back on top of your piece and cut off the seam allowance, leaving a nice clean edge to bevel and burnish on the right hand side of your front panel. You’ve stitched up the top pocket with the front panel and glued on the front pocket? Great! OPTIONAL - repeat this process on the back panel if you want to add card pockets! This helps expose the fibers of the leather for the glue to hold on to as well as reduce the thickness on the sides of your final cardholder. You can then go ahead and skive the leather down where the front pocket will be glued on 8mm from the edge - this is 5mm seam allowance and 3mm to the stitch line.
I find it easiest to place the pattern on top of the font panel, line up the top pocket and punch my stitching holes directly though before removing the paper to stitch.
For this you’ll find a guide on the template against which you can place the top pocket to figure out where your stitch line will be. The next step is to stitch the top pocket in place. Make sure to address the top edges of the two card pockets, the side edge of the back panel as well as under the “ailerons” (for lack of a better word) of the top card pocket. Before anything else, you’ll want to take care of any edges that won’t be reachable later in the build, beveling and burnishing them - I like to use the Tokonole here with a 100% cotton glove for a great burnish and tons of control.
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